|
Kyoto might be the cultural center of Japan, but the nearby town of Nara
gives it a very close run for its money. As usual, I had too
little time to cover too much ground, but luckily most of the main sights
in Nara are concentrated in and around Nara-koen park, at the foot of the
low mountains on the Eastern side of town. The word "koen", by the
way, seems to be Japanese for "park", so Nara-koen just means "Nara Park".
Around the South-East end of the park there are four large ponds with the
usual tame carp and turtles, all eager for handouts. Inside
the park are an estimated 1200 deer which you can feed biscuits to, bought
from stands around the park. All of this feeding has inadvertently
trained the deer to be aggressive, since the pushy deer tend to get fed
more.
Going up a short flight of stairs from Sarusawa-no-ike pond you find yourself
at a Buddhist temple called Kofuku-ji, which started life in 710AD.
A three storey pagoda in the temple grounds dates from 1143, and a very
large five storey pagoda dates from 1426.
A little East of Kofuku-ji is the Nara National Museum, which is supposed
to have very good displays of Buddhist art and other ancient relics.
Unfortunately, I didn't have time to visit this museum, or the nearby Neiraku
Art Museum. Instead, I was on my way to Nara's biggest claim
to fame, the Todai-ji temple.
The approach to Todai-ji temple takes you through the Nandaimon Gate, which
must be four or five storeys tall. At either end of the
gate are two giant wooden statues, each about 5 or 6 meters tall, of guardian
dieties striking fearsome poses. These images were carved in
the 13th century AD. Apart from chicken wire to keep birds
away, they're surprisingly exposed to the open air. Past this
gate there's a pond with more turtles, some attractive herons and a first
view of the temple itself, albeit surrounded by a pavilion.
At 50 meters (160 feet) tall and 60 meters (190 feet) wide, the Hall
of the Great Buddha at Todai-ji temple is the largest wooden building
in the world. As you might suspect from its name, it houses
a
giant statue of Buddha which is one of the world's largest bronze images.
Remarkably, both the temple and the Buddha statues are old scaled-down
reconstructions of even earlier originals. The statue weighs 437
tonnes, and 130kg of gold was used to decorate it. Originally
built in 746, he's lost his head a few times because of earthquakes and
fires. The hall, too, has had the misfortune to burn down twice
and the current building is only two-thirds the size of the original.
It's hard to believe.
There's
other
stuff in the Hall of the Great Buddha, and in most places it would
be impressive enough to be the main attraction. There are two
other large gold-covered statues, and another two huge wooden statues,
of people this time. As a final bonus, one of the pillars of
the temple has a hole cut through it, and whoever can get through the hole
is promised Enlightenment. It's easy enough for a child, but
I suspect that the only enlightenment a Western adult would receive is
that getting trapped in the foundation of an ancient and venerable temple
is a very foolish thing. |