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The Yasukuni-jinja shinto shrine is interesting from several points of
view. To start with, the buildings and surrounding grounds
are pretty interesting, especially since the entrance gate is massive -
the largest "torii" or shinto temple gate in Japan.
Also interesting are the politics of the place, because this shrine is
strongly associated with Japanese right-wingers, who are strongly nationalistic
and want the Emperor to be Prime Minister (ie, they want the Emperor to
be Emperor). The Yasukuni-jinja
website (which is in English and Japanese) contains some material which
nicely illustrates this sort of extreme view. I've copied an
article from the website called "A
Correct View of History", just in case it gets removed from the museum's
website in the future. The shrine is dedicated to the two and
a half million Japanese who have died in war, and it's disturbingly inclusive
- here lie the ashes of Prime Minister Tojo, who many believe masterminded
Japan's entrance into World War Two, and who was hanged after the war as
a war criminal.
Not totally coincidentally, the shrine is very near the Imperial Palace
in Tokyo, though the shrine is very old and predates Japanese World War
Two nationalism by a long period. Visits to the shrine by Japanese
prime ministers and other politicians are still very controversial.
All in all, it's a totally different experience from the Hiroshima
Atomic Bomb Peace Museum.
However, for me the main reason for visiting wasn't the shrine itself,
but the Yushukan war museum which is part of the shrine complex.
Not much Japanese military hardware survived the war (a situation which
is generally true for countries defeated in war), but there are some interesting
pieces of equipment here, including the first locomotive to traverse the
Thai to Burma railway, made famous in the film Bridge on the River Kwai.
There's also a World War Two Suisei ("comet")
dive bomber which was rescued from the island of Yap and restored,
and a tank recovered from a Pacific island battlefield.
One of the most interesting features of this museum is the prominence given
to euphemistically named "special attack operations" - in other words,
kamikaze suicide attacks. The theme starts outside, with a statue
of a young airman which I later found out was labelled "kami kaze", and
several rooms inside which are devoted to displays of individuals and the
weapons and circumstances under which they carried out their "special attacks".
There are two especially significant and authentic pieces of equipment
in the museum which were of the types used in these attacks.
The first is a kamikaze mini-submarine, really a converted torpedo, which
ironically is on loan from the American Navy! There's another
example of these submarines at the USS Bowfin submarine museum at Pearl
Harbor. The other one is an "ohka" ("cherry blossom") rocket
powered kamikaze plane which was to be carried underneath a bomber until
near its target and then piloted at high speed into an enemy ship.
The rocket technology for this particular aircraft was used by the Germans
on the Me163 Komett rocket-powered fighter, and later sold to the Japanese.
Again, there are examples of the ohka in America, with a very good one
on display at the Marine Air-Land Museum at Quantico, Virginia. |