OK,
so here's another photo of said policeman, heading towards the smaller
secondary pyramid which is next to the Bent Pyramid. And why
is he so far ahead of me, if he's meant to be accompanying me?
Is it merely that he continued ahead while I took this photo?
Or is there some more devious reason - like he wanted to hide the fact
that we were together? You decide, gentle viewer, you decide.
Well, I was still
innocently tagging along, and we got to the small pyramid, where he got
his camel to kneel down at the bottom, and then he encouraged me to climb
to the top. So up we went. It was a pretty good
place to get some photos, so I shot off a few and then he took a few of
me with the Bent Pyramid behind me.
We headed back down
the pyramid and then IT HAPPENED. He asked me for some baksheesh,
which depending on how charitable you're feeling and how you choose to
translate it, is either a tip or a bribe. I'm a pretty charitable
sort of guy, so I think of it as a tip for people who really are poorly
paid, and in fact I'd already set aside three or four Egyptian pounds separate
from the large and smelly wad of notes (bills, if you're American) that
I was carrying.
I handed them over,
and then we fell into a type of exchange which I got pretty used to by
the time I left Egypt, two and a half weeks later. He asked
for some more. I figured I'd already given him plenty - after
all, a taxi ride from my hotel in Cairo to the railway station cost only
five pounds. He kept asking and said in what little English
he had that he had three daughters to feed. I said a simple
"no" in a polite voice, though in my mind I was thinking rather less politely
that I should have given him condoms rather than money, so he wouldn't
end up with even more mouths to feed.
I turned around to
leave and that's when he shifted to plan B. I was already walking
away, so he got on his camel and came alongside me. "You want?"
he asked. "Want what?" I asked. "You want?" he asked
again, and that's when I noticed that he was giving the universally recognized
sign for - a hand job! I smiled and said, "no thanks", but
he wasn't quite finished with me, so I had to turn down his kind offer
a few more times.
OK, then, if that's
the way it's going to be then let's pull out all the stops and go for plan
C. "You want sucka?" he asked. I was still not
quite with it, perhaps it was just so unexpected or maybe I was still suffering
from jet lag and several nights of not sleeping - "Sorry?".
"You want sucka?". Well, it might be one thing not to understand
what he was saying, but from his actions and in the context of what had
just happened, it became crystal clear that he was now offering me a blow
job. I turned him down a few more times and then he must have
finally decided that I wasn't going to be much of a customer, after all.
"No problem, right?" Now he was covering his tail to make sure
that I wasn't going to report him and get him in trouble. "No
problem", I said.
I'm pretty open minded,
and I really didn't feel threatened by him, even though he did have a gun,
a camel and three daughters. If he wanted to earn a bit of
extra money, and if he was able to find willing customers around the back
of the pyramid, then why should I care? From my point of view
it was just a funny incident, and part of the whole experience of visiting
Egypt. It certainly put the initial interaction with him into
a different light; now I knew why he was approaching solitary male tourists
- he must have figured that they were the ones who were most likely to
be gay and to be open to his offers. In a way I think it's
endearing, because the western view of muslims is fairly black and white,
and we imagine that they're all fanatics who want death for anyone who
is "morally impure".
Some time later I
joined up with a group of backpackers and I mentioned this story to them.
One of them, James, said that it wasn't surprising that this happened,
because there was a long history of buggery in Egypt.
It occurred to me to suggest that he do some research and write a book
with that title, but then I thought better of it and just kept quiet.
But he explained that young Egyptian guys "help each other out" because
extra-marital sex is hard to come by, and you need to have a bit of money
before you can get married. So I guess they can be a bit more
sexually experienced and tolerant than we usually imagine. |