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Wellington is the southernmost national capital in the world, and it's
also the only major city in New Zealand where I swore I'd never live (Hamilton
would be a close second). This decision was obviously a mistake,
because the Fates took it as a clear signal that I should be forced to
live there, which I did for six months, immediately before coming to the
United States. Wellington is a nice enough place scenically
and culturally, but it combines all the worst features of San Francisco
and Chicago. Like San Francisco, it's very hilly which makes
driving and parking a car a nightmare, and it's also very earthquake prone.
Like Chicago, it's very windy, which means that it's colder and less pleasant
than New Zealand's other cities. I still remember visiting
as a teenager in mid-summer and going to a beach with my
brother Robert. He went up to his waist in the water, I
went up to my knees, and we decided that the freezing water was not worth
the effort!
Wellington is even hillier than San Francisco, and several of its suburbs
are in steep-sided valleys with only one road in and out of the valley.
Worse yet, there are only two roads into and out of Wellington itself,
both of which descend steeply down into the city and are very vulnerable
to being wiped out by landslides caused by an earthquake. The
main road within the city goes through the long Victoria Tunnel, which
has a fault passing right through the middle of it. Wellington
is also the only city in New Zealand where natural gas is the main energy
for cooking and heating, and where rail is the main form of public transport
- both things being particularly unsuited to the geography!
While I was living there, we had a swarm of earthquakes which lasted for
several weeks. I was already used to earthquakes from living
in Christchurch for six years, but in Christchurch the quakes are centered
in the Southern Alps, 40 or 50 kilometers away, whereas in Wellington there
are numerous fault lines immediately underneath the city. A
good size earthquake struck while we were eating dinner at home, making
the whole house creak and groan, and several hit while I was at work on
the top floor of a three storey building. The guys I worked
with were all so accustomed to earthquakes that after a few seconds they
would just say, "it's OK, it's a deep one" and everyone would just stand
still until it stopped. The deep earthquakes rock with a low
frequency and are less destructive, the shallow ones shake things at a
much higher frequency and are far more dangerous.
There's no doubt that The Big One will one day strike and cause mass destruction.
I figured that the odds of it happening in the short space I was there
was very low, but I sure wouldn't want to live there longer term, and I
certainly wouldn't want to own property there!
Just to put things into a proper perspective, I should say that I thoroughly
enjoyed my time in Wellington. The earthquakes were far more
entertaining than frightening, and I had an extraordinary run of luck with
the weather, which was sunny and balmy the entire time I was there, apart
from just a few storms. The harbour, entirely surrounded by
hills, is far more attractive than San Francisco bay, and the beaches and
coastline outside the harbour are very nice, too. The hills
provide good views for virtually everyone living here, and are a good vantage
point to look down on the city and its surroundings.
Wellington is also a nice funky little place, with all of the main sights
within walking distance of the downtown area, including Te Papa, which
is the national museum under construction while I was living there.
The city has some pleasant architecture and even opportunities to walk
through native New Zealand bush, which is the name given to low forest
in these parts. The zoo is not as conveniently located, but
it's only a short bus ride away, and it's one of the few places where visitors
can see native animals like kiwis, tuataras and wetas. Actually,
within a short drive of downtown Wellington, along the rocky shoreline
facing Cook Strait, you can even see wild native animals like seals and
little blue penguins. Since Wellington is a major jumping off
point for people taking the ferry to the South Island, it's definitely
worthwhile for local and foreign tourists to spend one or two full days
exploring its attractions. |